Nooka is synonymous with innovation. The brand's founder, Matt, had a vision of graphically depicting time in a new way. He turned that vision from a napkin sketch into a highly successful lifestyle company. If anything will inspire you to follow your dreams, this story is it. www.nooka.com
We started this blog to tell the stories of the entrepreneurial community. Design Glut always gets a lot of questions about how we got where we are, and we don't really have good answers because we're kind of flying by the seat of our pants. But then we realized, everybody's kind of flying by the seat of their pants.That's a great observation. The thing is, after you've actually done something, it gives the illusion of everything being strategic when it works out well, and that's generally when people see it. But you're absolutely right, the stories are interesting because so much of it is happenstance.
Of course, the strategic part is understanding when something good has come your way and leveraging it to the next step, and the next and the next. When I look back at the Nooka story, everything looks so strategic. Everything was done at the right scale at the right time, in hindsight. And yet while I wasn't 100% flying by the seat of my pants there was definitely some of that in there.
How did you come up with the idea for Nooka?Before I started Nooka, I was doing art direction for traditional advertising. This was mid-90s. But, on the side, I had my own website. I would make crazy animations for poetry, or little art projects. No one else was doing this at the time, which I didn't know. It was just something that was interesting to me. If you searched for web pages that had mixes of technologies, it was me and maybe ten other people.
Then I got a call from someone in Japan, a friend of a friend, who was searching for art directors that understood the web space. They wanted to invest in opening up a design studio in New York, which would handle interactive design, because there were no designers in Japan who had this experience yet. We set up the studio, New York Zoom. We were doing everything from branding, structuring websites, to programming them.
At that time, it was very difficult to get clients to understand that if you don't make the site intuitive for someone to use, it's not going to be successful. Now, that's pretty much understood, but back then it was like banging your head against a wall. I started obsessing over intuitive design. What is intuitive design? I would look at a pair of shoes and shoelaces. And I would think, god, it takes forever to learn how to tie your shoes. It's pretty difficult for kids. That is not intuitive. Now Velcro, that's intuitive.
When I was in that mindset, I saw this huge wall clock at the Landmark Hotel in London. I got a flashback to being taught how to tell time in first grade. And I thought, if you have to teach kids how to tell time, then it's not something you just intuitively know. That set off a little spark in my head - how come there aren't more modalities for expressing time, as it's such a basic concept.
I started doing sketches on napkins, and came up with some ideas that I thought were really cool. I sent them to my lawyer and we got design patents on them. And then I did prototypes, little 3D models. I was friendly with Tom Dixon, and one day when we were having coffee in his office I showed him the designs. He liked them, and he said, "You know what, Seiko has been after me to do watches, and I'm really not interested". He gave me their business cards and said, "If you tell them that I sent you, I'm sure they'll talk to you."
I had contacted Seiko. I had contacted everyone. I had a drawer full of rejection letters from every watch company, including Seiko. But when I contacted Seiko again, they were like, "Oh, you're a friend of Tom Dixon!" I guess they thought maybe I was as famous as him? Whatever. They did my watch. We had one model that came out.

And then later you ended up taking over manufacturing yourself?
Seiko had a very successful sub-brand, Spoon, and my watch was a part of that group. But they decided to change their business structure and shed all their sub-brands. I didn't even know that they had done this, until I got a call from the MoMA store. I had gotten my design into the MoMA store through my own connections. I got a call from them one day, saying, "We tried to reorder the watches, they're doing really really well, and Seiko's telling us they're not going to ship more or make them any more. What happened?."
It was the first I'd heard of it! I got angry enough that I complained about it to anyone that would listen. Eventually someone said, "Oh, you should do it yourself." And I was like, "What do you mean?"
I was introduced to this guy Eddie. He does watch manufacturing for major brands, and goes back and forth to Hong Kong. I met with him, and got some estimates for doing a very limited run. I figured, "OK, I can afford to do this. Even if I don't sell them, it's probably more interesting than having the money sit in a bank, and I'll have Christmas and birthday gifts for everyone forever."
That was literally my train of thought. Of course, I thought it would be great if they sold out, because then it would triple my money. But even if that didn't happen, I felt that it would be very satisfying and that it was something I needed to do.
So I did it. And it sold out in 8 months.
How did you market the watches?
My process was not, "Oh, I love watches. I want to make a watch." So I never really even thought about watch stores. Quite consciously, I knew it would be lost in a watch store. It's really an anti-watch watch. It's a precision timepiece, but it's not a watch. It's not that category.
Having it in the MoMA store presented it as an art piece, or a design object. That, to me, makes sense. And then, like we said, when you look back on things and they seem strategic... Being in MoMA was very strategic. WIthout hiring a sales staff or doing trade shows, I started getting calls from stores that wanted to order. Buyers from all over the world look at the MoMA catalog.
I got a call from United Arrows in Japan, that they wanted to carry the watches. I didn't know it until this happened, but if you're in United Arrows, it's like being in Barney's in New York. All the buyers in Asia look at what Arrows buys. So it was this really perfect cascade effect. MoMA led to Arrows, Arrows led to Hong, Kong, Singapore, Korea... It just was this organic progression.
Of course, now we have a PR agency on retainer and proper sales staff in 3 countries plus distributor arrangements in other other countries.

What's the future of Nooka?
There were a lot of mistakes in the first couple of years, being with the wrong people who didn't understand the brand. Now we spend a lot of money traveling and doing education about the brand. To us it's not a watch, it's a brand. We see it as a fashion brand, and we really want to see it expand beyond the watches.
We're coming out with a line of patented belts and wallets. We're doing a wallet system and a new type of belt. And it's all going to match a new up-and-coming watch. It will be a whole collection. Part of that collection will also be a fragrance. I think the fragrance gives the message that we really are producing a Nooka lifestyle.
The people that buy Nooka, the people that really embrace it, understand that there's a philosophy behind it. And people really get a lot out of it, which is very satisfying to me. People send me emails, or I meet them, and they tell me, "Looking at this watch every day reminds me that there's always another way to do something, and it makes me very happy." Someone just told me that recently, and I was like wanting to cry! They really got it.
You've also gotten into teaching. What have you taken away from that experience?
Yes, I'm an adjuct professor at Parsons. It's amazing. Even for me, in the beginning, it was very difficult to be articulate about my process. When you're teaching, you have to articulate design process otherwise you're not giving anything to the students. So in that sense, I get as much out of teaching as the students get, because I have to hone my presentation and communication skills.
The reason I started teaching was because I got so sick of looking at horrible graduate portfolios from American design schools. Some people criticize me for hiring so many foreigners. At one point I had mostly Japanese designers. Now I have Spanish and Australian staff members, it's very diverse. But the fact of the matter is I see better portfolios from Switzerland, Germany, Japan, Spain than from the US. I wanted to be part of the solution to improve this situation.
Why do you think that is?
The reason is really quite simple. There's a lack of a design culture. Americans may try to argue this point, but you can point to the Netherlands or the UK, which have well-endowed government sponsored organizations that support design as a discipline and as an art. Since their schools are nationalized, the deans can afford to be very picky about their students. Whereas in the US, a school is just a huge business, so they'll let pretty much anybody in.

What advice do you have for designer-entrepreneurs?
It's sort of a yoda-type sage advice: Ask for advice, but also know how to ignore it.
In my experience, people would say, "I'm in the watch business, and we've tried to do designs like this in the past, and I can tell you that you are not going to be able to sell them. Cut your losses now. Don't do this." It sounds intelligent, like this person knows what he's talking about. But you know what, you have to know when to ignore that. I think it's important to be confident.
But you do have to listen. There are so many things that you do need advice on, like legal matters and internet presence and intellectual property and going international. There are all kinds of things that people who go to business school might know, but people like you and me don't. I think it's important to listen, ask for a lot of advice, and really ignore anything that feels wrong to you.
Also, you know you're doing it wrong if you're spending more on time planning, or trying to get financing than designing and actualizing. I think that's the big trap. It's a problem that students have, too. The time you spend talking, writing, looking, and researching should be a smaller percentage than time spent doing, making, and showing.
The more one takes on all of this business stuff and this business language, the harder it is to get back to your creative place. How do you deal with that?
It's really, really hard. It's a process. You have to learn how to delegate and let go. But in order to do that, you need to find people to trust. It's really good to be involved with a school to get interns. Interns can be a lifeline. They're going to enjoy learning from what you're doing, and they're also going to help you free up your time to do what you need to do.
I went through a back-and-forth, where I tried to pull back and not do any of the business, and only do the creative and the design parts. And it just wasn't great. Until you get to a certain point financially, you can not afford to not be involved on every level. So unfortunately, until you have millions of dollars floating around in a bank account, you may never be free of that. You're always going to have to be on top of everything. Or you're going to have to become really comfortable with things not going exactly the way you want them to.
A big danger for people who run their own businesses is that they don't create systems, because they're doing everything themselves. They keep it all in their head, or they have it all in their sketchbook. I'm probably worse at it than with my own company than I am when I do branding for third-party clients, but what I'm trying to do is create systems. I want everybody in the studio to be able to create things that look Nooka, based on the Nooka system. And that will free me to do more creative stuff. I still do business stuff, but am not so overwhelmed that I'm working until midnight every day.

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